Fish Tales

Flower Hmong Girl

Our early morning visit to Can Cau revealed a vibrant, colorful marketplace nestled against the mountain hillsides.

Each Saturday the local tribes gather to exchange agriculture, animal and textile products. And then some.

In Vietnam, the Hmong represent the primary ethnic group in mountainous regions. And, within this group, several subcultures exist.

The “Flower” Hmong comprise the principle minority in the area and their dress almost resembles a kaleidoscopic vision. The embroidery that decorates their clothes distinguishes each tribe within the various Hmong tribes in the region.

It was an amazing experience.

And a great photography opportunity…

Fabric market

Vibrant colored embroidery

Strong elderly woman

Baby carrier

Mother with child

Packing 50kg (110 lbs)

Leading a donkey (in town)

Elderly man

Yum!

A few days growth

What happens when you combine a few days growth with a visit to the Bac Ha Sunday market?

A not so ordinary shave, far removed from electric razors or the neighborhood Great Clips back in Portland.

The market, located in the in the North Vietnam highlands, provides a location for locals to trade everything from water buffalo to locally distilled moonshine.

Just around the corner from the live chickens and right before the small kitchen fires cooking blood porridge, a row of barbers sit and wait for willing customers.

When I walked by, one barber met me with a casual enthusiasm. With only descriptive hand gestures and some broken English he indicated I really could use a shave.

Apparently I’d be much more handsome sans stubble.

So, to his surprise I said yes.

This response quickly drew a crowd of other barbers.

He suggested a price 50,000 Vietnam Dong (less than $3 USD) and in the excitement I quickly agreed and neglected to negotiate the price. I later learned I paid about five times the local rate, but no matter. I think this shave involved significantly more work than the average local.

And if he cut or nicked me, the shave was free.

So, the barber started with a new razor and some lukewarm shaving water.

It made me a bit nervous.

He slowly worked his way across my face.

Notice the motorcycle passing behind

Not that it hurt, but it wasn’t always super smooth. I expect the barber wasn’t used to thicker, Western style facial hair.

But once he finished my face was smooth. No cuts. What an adventurous shave!

Open-air barber shop

The barber and me